34th Annual Birmingham Ethnic Festival

Isten Hozott!

Thirty-five years ago, the Birmingham neighborhood in East Toledo was about to be bull-dozed in the name of "progress." They rallied the neighborhood by rolling out their traditions and heritage for a one-day event under the mid-August sun. Thanks to that large hand-full of active, forward-thinking individuals who stood in middle of the intersection of Consaul and Genesee--under the shadow of St. Stevens Church--and stared down "progress," the traditional Hungarian neighborhood still exists today. Subtitled "A Sunday in the Old Country" the Birmingham Ethnic Festival has celebrated the victory with a street festival that functions as a large family reunion. I overheard comments like "If you want to see someone from the old neighborhood, this is the place to be" and witnessed embraces from friends who may only see each other when they make their annual return to the Birmingham neighborhood.

Unlike the rainy day last year, it was a gorgeous day for the festival; I hope they experienced record attendance and that the coffers of the community organizations, that depend upon this festival to provide funding for their activities all year, burst from the proceeds. This year, Michelle and I attended the Calvin United Chicken Paprikas Dinner--delicious--of a perfectly seasoned chicken breast and wing, perched atop on a bed of dumplings, all covered with Paprikas Gravy, with hand-made Kolbaz, a side of creamed cucumber salad, crusty Vienna bread, butter and choice of beverage (water, fruit punch, coffee) in the basement of the historic church.



Out on the street, there were options galore. Calvin United had a stand selling Szalonna Sütes(Hunky Turkey) Sandwiches. Their version differs from that prepared by the Hungarian Club, in that the Jowl Bacon is freshly roasted over a apple wood fire and the rendered fat is drizzled over the entire combination of bacon, pepper, onion, and tomato on a single slice of crusty Vienna bread:

And there is beer, beer, beer, running through the streeths. I'm amazed how much beer there it here. Each church has a beer stand, the bars are open, and according to one of my informants from last year it's a tradition of sorts for him "Uncle Andy" to introduce the underage nephews to their first beer at the festival. Not only is this ritual tolerated, it's expected--it's part of the culture in Birmingham.



There's music:

And Dancing:

Games of chance:

And no trip to Birmingham is complete without a stop to George Takacs's Market for foot-long links of their delicious kolbasz sausage.

Best, NC

ALSO THIS WEEKEND...

There's a lot to do this weekend in NW Ohio. All of the venues I am writing about occur within an hour's drive (the way I drive) from BG. In addition to the Bucyrus Bratwurst Festival and the Pemberville Free Fair, there are:

The National Tractor Pulling Championship, in Bowling Green, Ohio which I have never been to but since I live within 2 blocks of the grandstand at the Wood County Fairground, I can hear the roar and smell the exhaust well enough from my back yard:

Here is a shot from across the street from the fair grounds--a short 4 minute walk from my house:

Corn City Festival in Deshler, Ohio. These are photos from last year. I don't think we will be able to attend this year.

Steamed corn in the husk:

Over-sized ear of corn made out of MANY 1 gallon and 1/2 gallon milk bottles (I love folk art):

I'll have to see if I can make it to the International Festival at the Islamic Center of Greater Toledo in Perrysburg, Ohio today. I have "real" work I need to do before the semester starts like finish writing two syllabi and prepping for two new courses: Cultural Anthropology and Minority Groups. But what better sets of data can one research? I guess you could ask me where the distinguishing line between work and play is here...but as an academic who works with an expanded definition of "academic" I can blur that line as long as I produce something useful.

On Sunday, we will be at the Birmingham Ethnic (Hungarian) Festival in Toledo. If you remember Jamie Farr's character from M*A*S*H, Corporal Klinger, you have heard of Tony Packo's Hot Dog Stand in the Birmingham neighborhood in Toledo. Tony Packo's anchors the festival at the intersection of Front and Consaul. There's an amazing story about this festival, peppered with a dose of intrigue, literally about taking back the street and preserving the neighborhood from "urban progress" and those who want to "improve" a public/ private space.

Hunky Turkey Sandwich (flame-roasted jowl bacon, onion, green peppers, tomato, and a liberal dousing with rendered jowl-bacon grease on crusty Vienna Bread, two douses if you want it "Hungarian" style:

When we think of the average work-a-day Joe as the repository of culture, these types of events gain traction and one may ask, what is it about this festival that generates such interest and what does it do for those who organize, participate in, or attend this festival?

Best, NC

Pemberville Free Fair 2008

The tiny village of Pemberville, Ohio lies approximately 10 miles down the Portage River from BG and hosts a plethora of historic and heritage events. Historic in that the Pemberville Free Fair is the last remaining free fair in the State of Ohio and the community regularly selects an item, event, activity to highlight as a way of communicating and constructing community pride. There are events throughout the year, and the community puts on a quality gathering--all the time. The restaurants are a notch above serviceable and I have never walked away dissatisfied. Pemberville is also the home of Beeker's General Store, one of Ohio's oldest general stores. A great place to visit and shop if you are looking for a unique item. I tend to buy a lot of gifts for friends and family at Beeker's.

Last night, we were in PV for the free fair. Michelle wanted her annual Waldo Sandwich fix. A "Waldo" is named after a small village near Delaware, OH where they take thick-sliced Eckrich Bologna and fry it on a griddle, slap it on a sandwich bun with a slice of American, dill pickle slices, and offer your choice of condiments: HEINZ ketchup or French's mustard. Michelle says it tastes like a flat hot dog. It's my hand, but I don't eat fried bologna:

Here is an image of my friend Sam Herrington with his heart-healthy Giant Tenderloin Sandwich I talked him into buying. I compared it to a Wienerschnitzle folded in half and slid between a diminutive bun with pickles and your choice of condiments: Heinz and French's. He took my advice that it was delicious and dove in. Since he had just finished the five-miler, he downed it with glee and declared it delicious! His metabolism runs so high, you should watch this dude down a plate of fried potatoes at The Corner Grill in BG at 2:00 AM.

Kermit the Tenderloin says HAVE A NICE DAY!

Best, NC

Bucyrus Bratwurst Festival 2008

Willkommen!

One of the chapters of my dissertation focuses on the role of ethnic foods and heritage in constructing a sense or connection to place. I have conducted a significant amount of field research at this festival but needed to attend and document the opening ceremony. So, this past Thursday, I dragooned my junior research assistant, Emily, and we drove to Bucyrus to be at the kick-off and to interview some of the participants.



If you want a more detailed description/ analysis, you'll just need to buy the book when it becomes available.

For 36 of the Bratwurst Festival's 41 years, Boyd Long has run a ceremonial "First Brat" from the Colonel Crawford Lions Club booth located on Sandusky Avenue two blocks South to the main stage on Warren Street.

As he rounds the corner from Sandusky to Warren, the two-man band strikes up a rousing rendition of "Happy Wanderer."

Long delivers the "first Brat to the standing, and anxiously awaiting, Bratwurst Queen and she takes the first bite, passes it to her first attendant, the first passes it to the second and then to the festival director, Greg Northrup. In unison, the royalty declare the 2008 festival officially open.

Then they all dance to the "Beer Barrel Polka."

Polka music fills the streets and the HEAVENLY aroma of brats wafts on the gentle breeze. You'll notice that the streets are busy for 12:00 PM on a Thursday...wait til after the parade. This festival typically draws 150,000 people to this town of around 14,000 for delightful treats such as Pita-Wurst from the Colonel Crawford Lion's Club:

Bratwurst Casserole lovingly prepared from a fifth-generation family recipe by the First United Methodist Church in Bucyrus:

Hand-cut-and-battered fried Swiss cheese:

Jumbo Bavarian Cream Puffs from Schmidt's in The German Village, Columbus, Ohio:

and the BEST bratwurst in the nation.


Best, NC

Framed Art

We have this amazing frame shop here in BG, Ben Franklin on Main Street. It is an all-purpose craft and general store with an old fashioned candy counter. This past week I took a 12" x 22" print of this photograph in for custom framing. I just heard that it is ready. This place consistently has the best custom framing.

Now about the pic. This was taken from my mother-in-law's place in Ogden on Christmas morning 2007 and is Ben Lomond Peak, Wasatch Range, Utah. The snow was fresh and you can see the powder blowing off the peak in the morning sun.

Best, NC

GR Applebutter Festival October 2007

This post is for my good friend, Michelle Conrow, who is also interested in food festivals, takes these epic morning walks, and shares her pics with us. The following images are few of my favorite food pics culled from my research into food festivals. These are from the Grand Rapids (Ohio) Applebutter Festival, an annual one-day event that draws around 100,000 people into this Maumee River village of around 1000 inhabitants to buy the sweet pioneer treat and a whole lot of other stuff.

Stirring the 55 gallon copper kettle over an open fire.

Filling the bottles with boiling applebutter

the final product

Front Street, Grand Rapids during the February 2008 flood.

Best, NC

An issue of fairness

I may not have been totally fair with the cultural scene in NW Ohio in my last entry.

BG is a spit-and-polish Midwestern town and offers many cultural events, such as the Black Swamp Art Festival, and is the home of four museums not attached to the university: The Wood County Historical Center and Museum, American Civil War Museum of Ohio, the National Construction Equipment Museum, and Snook's Dream Cars.

Front Entrance of the Wood County Historical Center and Museum.

What more can you expect from the county seat of Ohio's CORN-iest county? (Wood County Boasts the largest amount of corn, soy, and tomato cultivation for commercial use in the state of Ohio). Nothing beats having pride in in the works of one's own hands and I see that pride reflected in some of the barns in the area:

Community pride also make itself visible through the architecture and maintenance of the community. This past spring, I was asked to contribute some perspective on the historical architecture of Main Street, BG for the 2009 Bowling Green calendar. Although I do not consider myself to be an artist, I believe that my curiosity and eye for the less-than-obvious contribute in ways that are just as important. I will not burden you, dear reader, with a plethora of images, but here are just a few details of BG. Oh, it also doesn't hurt to have a decent camera. I'm shooting with a Canon S3IS.

Looking North on Main Street (Dixie HYW) in BG

Old City Hall, now headquarters of BG's Finest

Wood County Courthouse

Detail of Huntington Bank

Marquee of the Cla-Zel Theater. It is presently undergoing renovations to convert it into a bar/ multi-use entertainment venue. Soon, one will be able to have a meal, a drink and watch live theater, listen to live music, or watch a film all at the same time.

One more update: Michelle brought it to my attention that we will BE IN TOWN during the tractor pulls and in Grand Rapids, Michigan the FOLLOWING weekend--beh.

Best, NC

Haute Culture in BG

Culture drips from the trees in NW Ohio and in order to maintain the critical balance that prevents the time-space continuum from rupturing and obliterating our little corner of paradise BG is the home to both the world's first Department of Popular Culture at BGSU and The National Tractor Pulling Championship. Each August, by official mayoral proclamation, Bowling Green, Ohio transforms itself into PULLTOWN! --FULL PULL!-- (oops, I'm sounding like a native) and the rumblings of tractors of all sorts can be heard across town.

It's full-disclosure time here...I have never been to the tractor pulls, but I have been to the smaller-scale pulls at the Wood County Fair:

Did I mention that we live a block away from the Wood County Fairgrounds? Well, not only can the tractor pulls be heard across town, we can hear them in our basement with the Onkyo 6.1 surround system cranked. This year, Michelle, Jessica, Emily and I will crash Neil & Erica's place in Grand Rapids, MI for a weekend on Lake Michigan and a side trip to Holland for some tulip bulbs. Unfortunately, we will all miss the tractor pulls.

Wednesday at the Wood County Fair: Combine Demolition Derby

I took Jessica over to watch some quality entertainment. Admission: $6.00, tickets to the main event: $5.00, crowd watchin' at a COMBINE DEMOLITION DERBY: can't put a price on it.

An admirable sentiment: "The Survivor" is dedicated to the women in the driver's life who have battled breast cancer. Although this image does not show what is scrawled across the rear of the combine, this team is out to "save the tatas."

Best, NC